With the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm, the model has lastly given us the extra restrained dive watch the neighborhood has been hankering for because the mannequin returned to the fold in 2003. Since that point, Blancpain has heard from us all that we needed a extra compact model of the Fifty Fathoms, certainly one of two claimants to the title of “world’s first dive watch.” Sticking to its weapons, Blancpain maintained that the Fifty Fathoms mannequin was made for professionals in 1953 and thus couldn’t be smaller than its 45mm measurement. In fact, that unique mannequin was 41mm, so…
Barring some restricted editions through the years, Blancpain has by no means given any indication that it might ever yield to persistent requests for a smaller diver. Even for ladies, who’re an essential a part of the diving world. Nicely, we will all cease our bellyaching, as they are saying, as a result of there’s now a slew of Fifty Fathoms Automatique fashions to fulfill these constant requests, and they’re 38.2mm, to be exact. Now, we’ve to say that this was a little bit of a wink-and-a-nod type of drop from the model, with the primary two 38.2mm releases final week trying like standalone information. We wrote this complete story (for probably the most half) with out realizing that extra watches had been on the best way… One clue that extra fashions had been certainly coming was that the Web reacted slowly, uncharacteristically, and the press website was wobbly.
On these two women’ fashions revealed first, might both of those ostensibly made-for-her watches attraction to males? That’s right down to style, in fact, however – for the Singapore viewers – we expect certainly one of these fashions could be good for SG60…
Anyway, if we’re being sincere, we expect {most professional} commentators (ourselves included) by no means thought the day would come when there could be a Fifty Fathoms mannequin smaller than 40mm… and the smallest watch within the vary is 42mm, with something smaller (whats up Hodinkee!) being restricted to very particular runs. Certainly, the existence of the Bathyscaphe line, which does provide extra restrained proportions, appeared to render questions on smaller Fifty Fathoms choices moot. Such ideas appear downright churlish, it might be argued. In any case, the Bathyscaphe is sort of a wonderful dive watch in its personal proper; nevertheless, it’s not the Fifty Fathoms.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a proper correct icon and, if it’s your flavour of dive watch, nothing can substitute it. That is what all dive watches descend from- it’s an Ur type that precedes ISO requirements. In some ways, the unique Fifty Fathoms set the usual, or predicted them, should you desire. Which means that its type and character are sacrosanct, and but… Blancpain itself has altered the watch from the 1953 unique.
Nobody imagines that even the 2003 up to date Fifty Fathoms was a reproduction, nor the 2007 model that heralded the return of the watch to the common assortment. Blancpain doesn’t do replicas, and neither does any watchmaking model that invests in its personal id.
Earlier than we go additional, although, an precise introduction is known as for, and we will organise by order of launch. What we’ve first, then, are the 2 women’ computerized 38.2mm dive watches, one in pink gold and one in brushed grade 23 titanium – Ref. 5007 3644A and Ref. 5007 12B44R, respectively. Each are 12mm thick, so nothing extraordinary there and are powered by the identical computerized Calibre 1153, which boasts 100 hours of energy reserve however is just not chronometer licensed. Water-resistance is 300 metres and Blancpain has in fact not shorted us on an exhibition caseback.
The titanium mannequin has a pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial, whereas the pink gold watch sports activities a black dégradé mother-of-pearl dial. Blancpain calls these colors petal pink and smoky black. The titanium mannequin particularly leans into pink very closely, as you possibly can see.
Becoming a member of these two early birds are three formally “genderless,” fashions, all sharing the identical measurement and the identical Calibre 1153. These are Ref. 5007 1130 71S (polished metal with black dial and bezel); Ref. 5007 12B40 98S (satin brushed grade 23 titanium with blue dial and bezel); and Ref. 5007 36B40 O52B (pink gold with blue dial and bezel, this one with sail fabric strap).
Intriguingly, all 38.2mm fashions are sans date, which is a primary for the Fifty Fathoms assortment. Whereas that transfer could also be lauded by probably the most peevish of the date window debaters, the identical could not maintain true for the horn spacing for all 38.2mm fashions, which is 19mm. That is completely different to the 42mm fashions (21.5mm) and the 45mm fashions (23mm); this has implications for many who wish to swap out straps steadily and needs to be famous.
All fashions share the everyday Fifty Fathoms numerals, hour markers, arms and bezels, so they give the impression of being very related when considered in a list or on the web site. Simply as with the lug hole, there may be refined variations that can solely current themselves when the watches are examined bodily. An actual battle may emerge between the 2 pink gold fashions, that are differentiated by dial and bezel solely.
Not having worn these watches in any type, prototypes or in any other case, it’s tough to evaluate them relative to anything. It may be that the steadiness will probably be barely off or simply proper, however we’ll hazard a guess that the match over a wetsuit may be lower than optimum. It needs to be apparent from the look of the watches that these newest propositions are leisure instruments, not skilled ones.
And that leaves us with the concept that that is meant to be a second watch, or the first watch of an individual who doesn’t use it for diving. On that observe, the brand engraved on the case flank stays in place within the 38.2mm mannequin, and this, too, is a function that’s a lot mentioned. It’s most likely good that the gathering holds onto extra parts of its shared id – it didn’t happen to us to even ask after the flank brand initially.
We shut this primary look (at photos and specs) with a message from Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain (which was included within the press data and is sort of scrumptious): “The Fifty Fathoms is rather more than a diver’s watch, it’s a logo of exploration and innovation. With the addition of recent fashions, we’re responding to a transparent demand whereas reaffirming that this assortment was at all times meant for all wrists. It’s a pure and essential evolution for a watch born underwater, made to be worn anyplace.”
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #79 Summer season 2025 Difficulty
For extra on the newest in luxurious watch reads, click on right here.
