This Hidden Area Is Arkansas’ Gateway to the Ozarks

Northwest Arkansas could also be synonymous with Walmart, the large, multinational retail company that grew out of Walton’s 5&10 in downtown Bentonville. However for me, an energetic traveler with an curiosity in biking, hitting the paths, and having fun with a drink or two, Walmart is the least fascinating factor a few area that’s bursting with an exquisite mix of classic Americana and pure magnificence.

The spine of Northwest Arkansas’ outside playground is the Razorback Greenway, a 40-mile paved bike and pedestrian path that was formally devoted in 2015. Most use the trail for train and to get round in an in any other case car-dominant panorama. The Plaza at Pinnacle Hills, a brand new 10-acre luxurious improvement in Rogers, is aiming to draw outside lovers drawn to extra walkable city design by creating proper alongside the Razorback Greenway. (The Plaza contains flats and the forthcoming Resort Vin, scheduled to open in summer time 2026.)

Sidney Roach, group supervisor on the Plaza, moved into one of many flats throughout development. Mentioning her bike leaning in opposition to the patio railing, she jokes about her brief commute. When she needs a little bit of train or to get a drink, she simply hops on her bike and rides as much as Pure State Beer Firm, a German-style brewery that emphasizes Gemütlichkeit, a sentiment that roughly interprets as coziness coupled with group and good cheer.

I begin my morning on the Razorback Greenway, assembly Roach for breakfast at Un Deux Trois, a French-inspired bistro serving up a mixture of selfmade pastries and wraps, coffees, and curated wines from the likes of Burgundy and Piedmont. Having had the nice fortune to journey in France, I can inform the designer did their homework with massive home windows welcoming within the morning solar and a shaded pergola beneath a white and turquoise awning that virtually sings “La Vie en Rose.”

The Razorback Greenway stretches from the faculty city of Fayetteville, house to the College of Arkansas, by Rogers, and ends with mile 40 in Bella Vista, simply north of Bentonville. I’m a completionist, so I take a carry all the way down to Fayetteville with Rocket Woodlee, who manages the Phat Tire Bike Store in Rogers. Mile 0 begins at Kessler Mountain Regional Park, southwest of Fayetteville. I shortly study these mountain bike trails are only a style of what you may attain off the Razorback Greenway. OZ Trails estimates there are greater than 550 miles of trails within the area, giving Northwest Arkansas a powerful declare as the nation’s Mountain Biking Capital.

However I’m sticking to the pavement as we speak and following Woodlee alongside the twists and turns of the Greenway. The trail wraps like a ribbon, tracing the rolling panorama. I shortly lose monitor of my cardinal instructions, however am content material nonetheless to be zipping throughout charming wood bridges with maroon-colored steel railing and surrounded by a set of tall oaks, maples, and pines.

Round mile 30, we by accident drift onto the Railyard Loop—a roughly 15-mile round path that connects downtown Rogers to the Razorback Greenway. The giveaway was the rail line we had been biking alongside. The practice fanatic in me loves driving subsequent to the rails, however much less so when my abdomen is screaming, and we’ve got to double again an excellent 10 miles. Finally, we’re in a position to join a hodgepodge of trails and facet streets to hyperlink up with the Razorback Greenway on the Walmart campus, main into downtown Bentonville. We drop our bikes on the native Phat Tire Bike Store and seize a late lunch at Taco & Tamale Co., an oft-cited favourite round city.

Fueled up on tacky enchiladas verde, rice, and beans that would’ve sufficed for 2 separate meals, we make the ultimate push to Bella Vista, however not earlier than coasting round a few of the trails off the Greenway that encompass the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Artwork. After crusing beneath an enormous spider (a sculpture, fortunately), we drift previous mile 40 and end on the Bella Vista Phat Tire Bike Store, the place development is underway on a new mountain bike park close by that features a high-speed chairlift.

As a lot as I really like zooming round on two wheels, I’ll at all times be a sucker for grime trails on two toes. The Ozarks have tickled my creativeness since I first acquired a glimpse by means of Anthony Bourdain’s 2011 episode of No Reservations. There’s a sprawling remoteness to it that’s nonetheless accessible. In different phrases, you don’t have to schlep up a steep 10,000-foot mountain to get away from all of it. However the Ozarks actually aren’t flat; the paths are extra like a curler coaster, which is why lots of the paths in locations like Hobbs State Park-Conservation Space, 14 miles east of Rogers, double as mountain bike trails.

I solely have in the future on the paths, so I’m desirous to see as a lot as doable. I acquired a tip from the native tourism bureau to take a look at the 7.8-mile Karst Loop or the four-mile Pigeon Roost route. Earlier than my journey, I appeared them up and noticed I might simply join them with a bit additional sojourn on Wolf Den Loop—getting me to about 18.5 miles on the day. Offered.

The one method to do it, although, is by Uber, since I’m not ending the place I’ll begin. However this seems to be a beautiful method to get to know a few of the people of this area, like my driver, Michael.

“Effectively, you don’t appear to be you’re dressed for the workplace!” he quips, noticing my operating shorts and shiny purple Salomon path vest. I clarify I’m on the town from Berlin by means of a household go to to Cleveland. He mentions having an Italian grandfather and dreaming of retiring there in the future. After I say he’d probably qualify for a heritage passport, he virtually bursts out of his seat with pleasure. “I’m going to look into that as quickly as I get house!” he says, smiling.

We half methods on the Karst Loop trailhead car parking zone. It’s a Tuesday morning, so I’ve the paths all to myself, save for the solo mountain biker I cross in a while.

What can I say about these trails? They’re an absolute dream, rolling alongside one of many tributaries of West Fork Little Clifty Creek—the folksiest identify for a physique of water I’ve ever heard. Pausing on the tough sand close to Beaver Cove, I be aware on my map that an aerial view of the water appears like an underground view of a tree’s roots spreading.

Karst isn’t only a good, outdoorsy-sounding identify for a path. It refers back to the distinctive limestone rock that fashioned on account of being buried by an ocean roughly 350 million years in the past. Fossils from the shells and marine life that lived in that historical ocean can nonetheless be discovered within the rock.

Earlier than closing the loop again to the trailhead, I take a tunnel that runs beneath Web page Sawmill Street to attach with Wolf Den Loop. Away from the lakes, the path turns into a standard forested path that I think about would blot out the solar with its cover in peak summer time. However as it’s, many of the fall foliage has fallen to the bottom—fully blanketing the path in lots of sections between right here and Pigeon Roost.

An informational signal alongside Wolf Den asks passersby to think about recognizing the purple wolf roaming round these paths. We have now to think about as a result of, because the signal explains, the wolf is now threatened and not residing within the wild as a result of habitat loss and predator eradication campaigns that included government-backed bounty applications, trapping, and poisoning meant to guard livestock. It’s a somber second on the path, coming face-to-face with the results of our historic actions.

I am solely on Wolf Den Loop for about two miles earlier than taking one other connector path briefly to my closing cease of the day, Pigeon Roost. It is a double-stacked loop path, that means there’s a shorter four-mile loop for day trippers and an extended 8.5-mile choice for in a single day hikers trying to make use of one of many 5 primitive tenting websites.

Small recreation and deer looking is allowed within the space, so I made certain to test the allowing schedule on-line earlier than setting off on my run. Looking had been allowed over the weekend, however I’m protected on a Tuesday afternoon.

Like Karst Loop, Pigeon Roost runs alongside one of many winding arms of West Fork Little Clifty Creek. There’s a good thicker layer of fallen leaves overlaying the path. Each step is an informed guess, with my foot sinking an inch or two by piles of leaves earlier than reaching the exhausting floor of the path. That is hardly a difficulty when climbing, however a bit extra precarious when operating, the place you’re inherently much less steady and compelled to extra confidently smack your foot in opposition to the bottom.

In a couple of situations, I lose monitor of the path and should pause, on the lookout for the slightest trace of a curved divot indicating the place the trail is likely to be hidden beneath piles of freshly fallen leaves. This works, coupled with the occasional white blaze painted on trailside bushes.

Given the 20-plus-minute drive away from Rogers, I am going forward and schedule an Uber pickup in an hour on the Pigeon Roost trailhead with about 5 miles to go. Sudden climbs (that I might’ve simply seen on my map) gradual me to the purpose of getting to push myself to the brink of exhaustion so I can catch my journey on time. Between labored breaths, I really feel the rumble of an incoming notification. My Uber is early. I ship a fast message promising I’m on my manner and that I’m operating. “Get it, Joe!” she writes again.

I make it to the car parking zone proper at 2:45 p.m., which is after I scheduled the pickup. I’m exhausted, able to slither into the automotive and make a beeline to the closest pizzeria on the town for soul-replenishing carbs. “What have been you operating from?” the driving force asks as I thank her for the bottle of water in between heavy breaths. “Hunters,” I joke.

After inhaling a veggie pizza at The Rail, I’m in a position to stroll out and absorb downtown Rogers for the primary time. It’s pure classic Americana at first look, with its wholesome inventory of late Nineteenth- and early Twentieth-century buildings lining the slender grid of streets subsequent to the rail line. The core is nestled in a pocket of familiar-sounding, arboreal streets: Poplar, Elm, and Walnut. Painted commercials on the facet of buildings embrace a form of previous America nostalgia, just like the Keep True Bike & Barber signal that wouldn’t look misplaced in a Nineteen Twenties interval piece.

I am drawn to the previous Greenback Saver turned Onyx Espresso Lab. It’s an enormous coffeehouse stuffed with distant staff, stroller-pushing mother and father, and associates chitchatting over a recent brew. I get a scorching cup myself, one of many tastiest I’ve had in current reminiscence. I vow to return the following morning earlier than my flight house for an additional cup and to nosh on one of many recent pastries.

For now, I seize a fast bathe earlier than heading to dinner and a mezcal tasting at Yeyo’s, which brings “el alma de México” (the soul of Mexico) to the guts of the Ozarks. The namesake, Don Yeyo, was a migrant farm employee within the early Seventies earlier than establishing his circle of relatives farm in Little Flock, Arkansas, in 2007. 5 years later, Don’s son, chef Rafael Rios, began Yeyo’s Mexican Grill to honor his father’s legacy and rejoice the mix of Mexico’s culinary traditions with the bounty of Northwest Arkansas. The 15-year U.S. Military veteran shortly turned a James Beard Award semifinalist for Greatest Chef: South a number of occasions. In 2022, The New York Occasions named Yeyo’s one of many 50 Greatest Eating places in America.

Daniela Pedraza, Yeyo’s beverage director, guides me by a tasting after I assist myself to a savory unfold of smoky squash asado tacos. Arguably some of the essential elements to grasp about mezcal, I study, is that it’d be a much more respected and costly drink if it have been produced in France or Scotland. Scotch, it appears, is a superb stepping stone into higher understanding mezcal taste profiles.

“I’m a fan of the smoky, peaty stuff,” I say when Pedraza asks what sort of Scotch I drink. She reaches behind the bar and grabs a bottle of Laphroaig, coincidentally my go-to for an inexpensive house choice.

She begins me off with a basic margarita earlier than shifting to the sampler. For one thing smoky, she gives up a style of the Rey Campero Espadin. One sip modifications every part I presupposed about mezcal, having lengthy mistaken it for tequila. (Mezcal is the broader class of Mexican spirits made by distilling fermented agave. Tequila is just one fashion inside that class, produced solely from blue Weber agave in Jalisco, the place most tequila comes from.) 

On my closing morning, I be sure that to cease again in downtown Rogers one final time for an every part bagel and schmear from Ozark Mountain Bagel Co. It is a Northwest Arkansas chain of New York-style bagels with 5 areas, together with the most recent in downtown Rogers, led by Nicole Dobson, together with her youngsters working the counter.

Dobson explains she probably might’ve made extra of a revenue opening up within the outskirts, the place there’s a bit more cash, however she wished to be a part of downtown Rogers’ story. She describes Fayetteville as the faculty city, Bentonville as the company Walmart hub, and Rogers because the blue-collar coronary heart and soul of the area.

Strolling alongside the Railyard Loop—the exact same that pulled me away from the Razorback Greenway a few days earlier—I take a second to admire the scene one final time. Down an alley, I discover a big billboard stretched throughout a brick constructing. On a backdrop of ocean-blue colours, the daring, white textual content reads a profound message from native artist and poet Robert Montgomery.

“We maintain out our hearts for a brand new tomorrow, could the silly fires of hate be healed by the chilly water of kindness.”

I can see why somebody like Dobson would need to be a part of this group.